A textile tradition older than modern outdoor brands
Loden is a densely woven, felted wool fabric with roots in the rural Alpine regions of Austria, particularly Tyrol. Traditionally used for coats and jackets that shed rain and wind without a membrane, loden's density comes from a fulling process that shrinks and mats the wool fibres after weaving. Genuine loden garments are heavier and stiffer than typical modern wool coats, and they age slowly — a well-made loden coat can outlast several generations of technical shells.
Boiled wool (Walkloden or "Buchsteiner" style knitwear) uses a similar felting principle applied to a knitted rather than woven base, giving cardigans and jackets a dense, slightly textured surface that resists wind better than a standard knit.
Knitwear brands and what they're known for
Giesswein, based in Wörgl, Tyrol, is best known for boiled-wool footwear (its wool slippers are a recognisable Austrian export) but also produces knitwear using similar wool-felting techniques, prioritising natural fibre and simple construction over technical membranes.
Löffler applies its seamless knitting technology — normally associated with performance sportswear — to premium knitwear lines as well, producing merino sweaters and base pieces with no side seams, which reduces chafing points and gives a closer, more tailored fit than cut-and-sew knitwear.
Beyond named brands, a broader category of small Austrian workshops (particularly in Tyrol and Vorarlberg) continue to produce loden and wool goods using regional wool, often sold through local ateliers rather than large retail chains — worth seeking out if you want a traceable, single-origin piece rather than a mass-market label.
| Knitwear Type | Typical Use | Care Note | Longevity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loden coat | Rain/wind-resistant outerwear | Occasional professional cleaning | Multi-decade with care |
| Boiled wool cardigan | Mid-layer, cool-weather everyday wear | Hand wash or wool cycle, lay flat to dry | Many years |
| Seamless merino sweater | Base or standalone layer, active use | Wool-specific detergent, avoid tumble drying | Several years with regular wear |
Merino sourcing considerations
- Mulesing-free certification: some merino suppliers guarantee mulesing-free wool; check a brand's materials page if this matters to you.
- Fibre micron count: finer merino (lower micron number) feels softer against skin but is generally less durable than coarser grades used in outerwear.
- Blend ratios: merino blended with nylon or elastane improves durability and stretch recovery at a small cost to natural breathability.
Natural wool knitwear
- Excellent temperature regulation
- Biodegradable and often traceable to source
- Ages well visually, doesn't pill as fast as synthetics when well made
Trade-offs
- Higher upfront cost than synthetic knitwear
- Requires more careful washing and storage
- Heavier weight than comparable technical fleece
Tip: a genuine loden coat should feel dense and slightly stiff when new — if a "loden" garment feels soft and light, it's more likely a lighter wool-blend fabric styled in the loden aesthetic rather than true fulled loden cloth.
